What Frankfort lacks in size, it more than makes up for in the number and diversity of attractions it offers the discerning visitor. From world-famous bourbon distilleries to a world-famous candy maker; from a much-lauded animal sanctuary to a rural art trail; from a historic river to an historic hilltop cemetery, Kentucky’s capital city will keep you enthralled.
First on any visitor’s agenda should be a free tour of the Capitol and grounds. Begin with the imposing location at the end of flower-lined Capitol Avenue and proceed to the elegant Beaux Arts building itself. Once inside, stand in the rotunda and gaze up 171 feet to the exquisite dome modeled after France’s Hotel des Invalides, the Paris burial place of Napoleon Bonaparte. More French flair can be seen in the grand staircase designed to mimic the one at the Paris Opera House.
You’ll know you’re not in France, however, as you admire bronze statues of native sons Abraham Lincoln and Henry Clay before moving on to colorful murals that depict Daniel Boone getting his first look at Kentucky, and the Treaty of Sycamore Shoals, which led to the purchase of land from the Cherokee.
You can visit the House and Senate chambers when the General Assembly is not in session, and the imposing state reception room (again with a French twist – inspired by Marie Antoinette’s drawing room at Versailles).
Don’t leave without viewing the First Ladies in Miniature, a collection of dolls showing every First Lady in her inaugural ball gown. Note: Phyllis George, then wife of Governor John Y. Brown, might have been Miss America, but the real glamor girl among the first femmes was Ida Lee Willis, the 46th First Lady in a slinky number that might have been appropriate for the Grammy Awards.
Stroll the grounds and stop to photograph the Floral Clock, with its flower face made from seasonal plantings. Standing 34 feet tall, the clock has a 530-pound minute hand and a 420-pound second hand.
Once you have seen the New Capitol Building (built from 1906-1910), wander over to the Old State Capitol on West Broadway, considered quite a bold architectural statement for the early 20th century. If the New Capitol building channels France, the Old Capitol pays homage to Greece, becoming the first building west of the Appalachian Mountains to be designed in Greek Revival style.
Of particular interest are the freestanding circular stone staircase below the dome, the House and Senate chambers (complete with brass spittoons beneath the desks), and the statue of William Goebel, who has the distinction of being the only U.S. governor assassinated while in office (Louisiana governor Huey Long was a U.S. senator when he was gunned down in Baton Rouge’s Old Capitol Building).
The 1899 gubernatorial election had been fiercely contested, with both parties accusing the other of skullduggery and vote rigging. On January 30, 1900, the victorious Goebel was on his way to the legislative session when he was shot by an assassin hiding in the Secretary of State’s office in the Capitol annex. Goebel lingered for four days before succumbing to his wounds – long enough to be sworn in and to request oysters shipped from New Orleans for his last meal.
It’s a chocolate factory that would make Willy Wonka envious. The modest cottage with red awning in the shadows of the state capitol seems an unlikely setting for one of Kentucky’s most popular exports, but once inside, there’s no doubt that chocolate rules: horse heads fashioned out of white and dark chocolate, raspberry jellies, caramels, pecan blondies and more than 100 other delectable options.
But in this chocolate empire, one reigns supreme. Rebecca Ruth (named for two schoolteachers, Ruth Hanley and Rebecca Gooch, who founded the company in 1919) was the first to produce candy infused with 100 proof bourbon whiskey. Even though the maximum used is small (around 5 percent), “bourbon balls” pack a mighty punch, and are as symbolic of Kentucky as bourbon itself.
On the north side of Frankfort, Buffalo Trace Distillery is situated in a picturesque setting of rolling hills, where the Kentucky River intersects with the former historic trace, down which buffalo, Native Americans and settlers all traveled. Buffalo Trace is the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States (dating to 1812) and the first to market single barrel bourbon commercially.
You’ll definitely want to take one of the informative tours (be sure to register in advance) where you will learn all about the distillery and its acclaimed whiskey. Then see for yourself with a tasting of its award-winning products.
This sleek, sophisticated bar, combining classic cocktails and classic design, would be right at home in Manhattan or San Francisco with its mahogany doors, translucent petal pink bar top, velvet chairs and cobalt walls, along with a huge chandelier resembling an upside-down octopus with sprawling glass globe tentacles.
As impressive as the design is, the real draw is the curated cocktail menu. With more than 250 bourbons and ryes to choose from, this is no mere bar for slaking your thirst, but a bourbon library where selecting a bottle from the shelf signals the beginning of your education.
If you would like your bourbon by water instead of land, there’s no better way to do it than by booking the only water-based Bourbon Trail tour. Kentucky River Tours’ flagship Kentucky River Bourbon History Tour gives visitors a unique perspective on the river and the early distillers who decided to build their fortunes along its bank. Cruisers will see remains of bankside buildings – some in ruins – that marked the beginnings of the commonwealth’s signature industry.
Along with the rich bourbon history, comes the natural beauty of the river (marvel at the limestone cliffs rising from the banks) and an opportunity to spot wildlife from bald eagles to blue herons.
If you want a more thorough indoctrination into our bourbon culture, opt for the four-hour Old Taylor Tour which combines a river tour with a stop at Buffalo Trace Distillery, and if you want to sip while you cruise, book a spot on the Bourbon Belle.
Would you like to see the house in whose garden Bibb lettuce was first planted or the prairie-style house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the only one built in Kentucky during the architect’s lifetime, or the former pool hall – now a bourbon bar – where actor Jack Lemmon hung out while filming “The Great Race,” part of which was shot at Buffalo Trace Distillery?
If so, you can see these places and more on the free 45-minute trolley tour which runs Tuesday through Saturday from April to October. The trolley has 21 stops, including the State Capitol and grounds, Rebecca Ruth Candy Tours & Museum, Old State Capitol and Buffalo Trace. Just look for the red and green trolley and hop on and off to see all that Frankfort offers.
What is a vacation without the opportunity to bring some of your vacation spot home with you? Frankfort is a mecca for those looking for independent locally-owned shops with specialty items.
Want to document your Kentucky experience? Check out Completely Kentucky where hand-crafted items from woven blankets to Weisenberger Mill mixes are the works of 500 artists and artisans whose only requirement is to be creating and working in the commonwealth. Age is just a number – whether it be the pre-teen working in slime or the nonagenarian working in clay.
Just next to Completely Kentucky, Poor Richard’s Books is a repository of fiction, non-fiction, children’s lit and history, with an emphasis on Kentucky history, in a cozy, comfortable environment which makes one want to stay…and stay….and stay. The owner’s passion for books is not surprising when you learn her husband was a former novelist and Kentucky poet laureate.
Downtown shops run the gamut from funky (Fancy Flamingo Boutique) to fragrant (Kentucky Flower Market); from elegant (Miss B’s Antiques) to eclectic (Glitterati). We even have shops geared to those who want to make their own art project (Broadway Clay) or learn to play the guitar (Muskets Music Station).
So, why not forgo the Big Box stores and spend quality time in our specialty shops?
The bronze statue of an elk at the entrance lets visitors know that they have arrived at Salato Wildlife Center, a Frankfort fixture for 30 years. With some 40 species of animals in residence, the Center is a habitat for native Kentucky fauna.
Black bear, bobcat, bison and bald eagle are found alongside tamer species such as deer, turkey and quail. Exhibits also feature venomous and non-venomous snakes, frogs, turtles and fish, including several species – alligator gars and Hellbender salamanders – which are in decline and need conservation.
Salato showcases Kentucky’s flora as well as its fauna in habitats ranging from the Dragonfly Marsh (a haven for herons) to a pollinator garden featuring various types of milkweed.
Finally, with two lakes and four miles of hiking trails, Salato Wildlife Center doesn’t just provide environmental education, but offers ample recreational opportunities as well.
Images by Salato Wildlife Education Center
A cemetery may seem a strange choice for a tourist stop, but take our word for it….you’ll want to see this one. For starters, the location is stellar – atop a hill overlooking the Kentucky River. While the cemetery is the final resting place for many Frankfort notables, the grave most come to see is that of Kentucky’s most famous pioneer, Daniel Boone, buried alongside his wife Rebecca in a sheltered nook surrounded by a grove of trees.
Or is he? Controversy remains as to whether Boone actually lies in his own grave. History tells us that Boone – not happy with the growing civilization of Kentucky – took Rebecca and lit out for less settled Missouri. Upon their deaths, they were buried there, and so residents of the state thought it would remain.
However, a Boone family member succeeded in getting the couple returned to Frankfort and re-buried…..or at least Rebecca was. It is said that Missourians – not happy at losing their own star attraction – substituted another body for that of Daniel.
Come stand atop the hill overlooking the river and ponder whether the grave really contains Boone’s bones or those of an imposter.
